The Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, Vitoria-Gasteiz

Vitoria-Gasteiz

The Basque capital nobody bothers with

The Rolodex

City , The GUIDE

Photos & words by

Coco Tran

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THE TRIP

Visited

Travelled the Basque Country, June 2024

Basis

Trip I took

Updated

25 Oct 2026

The short answer

Vitoria is the Basque capital and the city nobody bothers with. Come for the cathedral, whose twenty-five-year restoration finished in April 2025 and now includes a balcony at vault level, the medieval Almendra, Artium at five euros, and the green belt. It is a half or full day on the way to Rioja Alavesa, not a luxury base.

At a glance

Setting
The inland Basque capital, 250,000 people on a plain an hour south of Bilbao
Best for
Travellers who have done Bilbao and Donostia, or who are heading to Rioja Alavesa
Standout
A cathedral you now walk through at vault level, after twenty-five years of restoration
Consider
No Michelin Key hotel and no starred restaurant in the city. Make it a day, not a base
Stayed
Vitoria-Gasteiz, June 2024

Trip I took
Hotels here can be booked through Coco Tran Travel. How we review.

The Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, Vitoria-Gasteiz

The Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, the centre of everything

Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of the Basque Country, which surprises almost everybody – most people assume it is Bilbao or San Sebastián. It is an inland city of about a quarter of a million on a plain an hour south of the coast, and it is the one nobody bothers with. I think that is a mistake, though I want to be straight with you about what it is and is not.

What it is: the best-preserved medieval quarter in the Basque Country, a cathedral with one of the most interesting restoration stories in Europe, a contemporary art museum almost nobody visits, and a ring of parkland around the whole city that genuinely changes how it feels to walk around. What it is not: a luxury base. There is no MICHELIN Key hotel here and no starred restaurant in the city. Come for a half day or a full one, on the way to Rioja Alavesa, and you will have the best of it.

Coco Tran

You’ve reached the quiet door.

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