The village of Deià below the Serra de Tramuntana, Mallorca

Mallorca

Hire the car, stay in the mountains, and swim somewhere different every day.

The Rolodex

City , The GUIDE

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Coco

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The village of Deià below the Serra de Tramuntana, Mallorca

Deià, stacked on its hill under the Tramuntana, which is where I would base the whole trip.

Mallorca has a reputation problem that has almost nothing to do with Mallorca. Say the name and a lot of people picture a strip of high-rise hotels, and that strip does exist – it is about four kilometres long and you can drive past it in six minutes.

The rest of the island is a UNESCO mountain range falling into the sea, stone villages with green shutters and bougainvillea coming over the walls, an old wooden train, a cathedral that Gaudí worked on, and more coves than you could swim in a summer. It is also only two hours from most of Europe, which is the part that still surprises people.

I have spent a lot of time here with a camera and the thing I would tell you first is to go north and west. Base in the Serra de Tramuntana, hire a car, and treat the beaches as day trips rather than the point.

You’ve reached the quiet door.

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