The village of Deià seen through olive trees, Mallorca

Deià

And the Tramuntana around it, which is the best part of Mallorca.

The Rolodex

City , The GUIDE

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Coco

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The village of Deià seen through olive trees, Mallorca

Deià through the olives. Seven hundred people, one mountain, and a great many painters.

If I could only send you to one part of Mallorca it would be this one – the stretch of the Serra de Tramuntana that runs from Valldemossa through Deià to Sóller, with the mountains on one side and a very long drop to the sea on the other.

Deià itself is about seven hundred people on a hillside of ochre stone and green shutters, and it has been a writers’ and painters’ village since Robert Graves moved there in 1946 and never really left. Sóller, twenty minutes north, is a proper working town in a valley of orange groves with a wooden train that still runs up from Palma. Fornalutx, above it, is regularly called the prettiest village in Spain and does not argue.

Base here for at least half of any Mallorca trip. The roads are slow, the lunches are long, and that is entirely the point.

You’ve reached the quiet door.

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