The steps up to the Parvis Saint-Michel in Menton

Villefranche

And Cap Ferrat next door, which is the quiet half of the Riviera.

The Rolodex

City , The GUIDE

Photos & words by

Coco Tran

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Category

THE TRIP

Visited

Travelled on the French Riviera, June 2024

Basis

Updated

25 Oct 2026

The short answer

Ten minutes by train from Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer and the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula next door are the quiet half of the Riviera. Villefranche is for the lanes and lunch, Cap Ferrat for the water, the gardens and a coastal path almost nobody walks. Together they make the best base on the Côte d’Azur.

At a glance

Setting
A jewel-box bay and the leafy peninsula of Cap Ferrat, just east of Nice on the French Riviera
Best for
Anyone who wants the glamorous Riviera at its most charming and swimmable
Standout
The pastel old town tumbling to the harbour, and the coast path around Cap Ferrat past dreamy villas
Consider
Summer gets busy and parking is tricky, so come by train or in shoulder season for the magic without the crush
Stayed
French Riviera, June 2024

Hotels here can be booked through Coco Tran Travel. How we review.

Villefranche from the water, in the ochres that have not been allowed to change since the sixteenth century.

Everyone lands in Nice and most people stay there, which is lovely for Nice and extremely convenient for the rest of us. Ten minutes along the coast by train is Villefranche-sur-Mer, an ochre amphitheatre of a village stacked above one of the deepest natural harbours in the Mediterranean – and ten minutes beyond that, the peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, where the money has been quietly hiding since the 1880s.

I shoot a lot of film on this coast and these two are where I keep going back. Villefranche for the lanes and the lunch; Cap Ferrat for the water, the gardens, and a coastal path that is one of the great walks in Europe and that almost nobody does.

Put together they make the best base on the Cote d’Azur – close enough to Nice, Monaco and Eze for anything you want, far enough from all three to actually hear the sea at night.

You’ve reached the quiet door.

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