Mexico City

The most underrated great city in the world, and how to eat it

The Rolodex

City , The GUIDE

Photos & words by

Coco Tran

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Category

THE TRIP

Visited

Travelled in Mexico, most recently June 2024

Basis

Trip I took

Updated

25 Oct 2026

The short answer

Four nights minimum, and more if you can spare them. Mexico City holds eleven MICHELIN-starred restaurants, the finest museum in the Americas and a street-food culture serious enough to collect its own Bib Gourmands. Stay in Roma, Condesa, Juarez or Polanco; book Pujol three months out and Quintonil two; and give a full day to Coyoacan and a dawn to Teotihuacan.

At a glance

Setting
Twenty-two million people at 2,240 metres, built on a drained lake bed, with the best weather of any capital in the Americas
Best for
Eating, museums, architecture and the most underrated big city in the world
Standout
Eleven MICHELIN stars in the 2026 guide, with Pujol and Quintonil both at two
Consider
The F1 Grand Prix and Dia de Muertos overlap at the end of October. It is the tightest week of the year for rooms.
Stayed
Mexico City, June 2024

Trip I took
Hotels here can be booked through Coco Tran Travel. How we review.

A deep pink wall in Mexico City, in the Barragan tradition

Barragan pink, which the whole city borrows from

I will say this plainly: Mexico City is the most underrated great city in the world, and the people who have been it has been obvious to for the last decade are starting to sound smug about it. It has the museums of Paris, the street life of Bangkok, the architecture of Barcelona and the weather of coastal California, and it costs a fraction of any of them. Twenty-two million people living at two thousand two hundred and forty metres on a drained lake bed, in a city that has been continuously inhabited since 1325.

What surprises people most is how gentle it is. Roma and Condesa are leafy, low-rise, full of jacaranda and bookshops and dogs, and you walk everywhere. Chapultepec is twice the size of Central Park. The light at seven thousand feet is extraordinary and photographs beautifully. And the food runs the entire range in a way almost nowhere else does – eleven MICHELIN-starred kitchens in the 2026 guide, and twenty-seven Bib Gourmands that include three taquerias and a tortilleria.

Four nights is the minimum that works. Five or six is better, because there is a day out to Teotihuacan and a day in Coyoacan that both deserve to be unhurried.

Coco Tran

You’ve reached the quiet door.

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