Tulum

Quieter, cheaper and better than it has been in years

The Rolodex

City , The GUIDE

Photos & words by

Coco Tran

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THE TRIP

Visited

Travelled the Yucatan Peninsula repeatedly, most recently 2024

Basis

Trip I took

Updated

25 Oct 2026

The short answer

Tulum has cooled off, and for the first time in a decade that is genuinely good news. Occupancy is down, rates in the worst-hit stretches have fallen by up to forty per cent, and the beach road is navigable again. Fly into Cancun rather than Tulum’s own airport, choose a property that clears its own sand, go to the ruins at eight in the morning, and you get the Tulum people fell for in the first place.

At a glance

Setting
Twenty kilometres of Caribbean beach road, jungle behind it and a cave system underneath, ninety minutes south of Cancun
Best for
Design hotels, cenotes and the best-value luxury on this coast right now
Standout
Six Tulum properties took MICHELIN Keys in the October 2026 list, Wakax Hacienda with two
Consider
2026 was the worst sargassum season on record in Quintana Roo. Pick a hotel that clears its beach properly, or go in winter.
Stayed
Tulum, repeatedly

Trip I took
Hotels here can be booked through Coco Tran Travel. How we review.

Clear turquoise Caribbean water off the Tulum beach road

The water is the reason, and it has not changed

Here is something almost nobody is telling you about Tulum: it is having a hard time, and that makes this the best moment to go in about ten years.

The numbers are not subtle. Hotel occupancy across the municipality ran at 63.7 per cent in the first seven months of 2026, down from 72.7 per cent the year before, and the coastal strip dipped to around fifteen per cent in low season. Roughly a thousand hotel rooms are currently closed. The archaeological zone is seeing something like a quarter fewer visitors. Aeromexico pulled out of the new Tulum airport at the end of September, Volaris goes in January, and international routes there have fallen from twelve to four. Properties in the worst-affected stretches have cut rates by up to forty per cent.

Tulum got expensive, crowded and a little pleased with itself, and the correction has arrived. What is left behind is the thing that made everyone fall in love in the first place – a twenty-kilometre beach road through the jungle, the largest underwater cave system on earth running underneath it, a Mayan city on a cliff above the Caribbean, and a handful of genuinely extraordinary hotels. Only now you can get a table, a room and a stretch of sand to yourself.

Two honest caveats before we go further, and I would rather you hear them from me: sargassum had a record year, and the ruins are harder to reach than your old guidebook says. Both are manageable, and I will tell you exactly how.

Coco Tran

You’ve reached the quiet door.

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